DIY超豪华PP磁铁魔方~~！

popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 1</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Plan out polarities</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>Before I devoted my time to this idea, which came to me while imagining a version of the cube that didn't need the intricate connecting tabs found inside a cube, I checked Google for magnetic rubik's cubes, finding none (though a friend found one (theoretically) available in China by removing the 's from rubik the day before I finished this thing). Then I mocked up a 3D version in Maya to figure out the polarities of the magnets to see if it would remain sound as faces were spun all around. It appeared that it would.<BR></DIV>
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[ 本帖最后由 popopopolo 于 2008-5-16 12:18 编辑 ]

popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 2</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Get some cubes</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>I researched cubes of all sorts online, including wooden blocks, "learning cubes," cubes of ABS, PVC, etc, and finally settled on 3/4" clear cast acrylic cubes from Tap Plastics:</DIV>
<DIV class=txt><A href="http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=136">http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=136</A>&amp;<BR>I got 3 sets of 10, as I needed 27. The extra 3 helped me test things out, which saved me some big trouble. These aren't all that precise, with romboid and trapezoidal angles aplenty, but in the end, they work well, especially as they're nicely rounded</DIV>
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[ 本帖最后由 popopopolo 于 2008-5-17 23:37 编辑 ]

popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">
<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 3</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Get some magnets</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>I found K&amp;J magnetics through Google:<BR><BR><A href="http://www.kjmagnetics.com/"><FONT color=#0000ff>http://www.kjmagnetics.com/</FONT></A><BR><BR>They have a huge selection, and I settled on their D32 3/16" disc magnets, which are 3/16" tall.<BR><BR><A href="http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D32"><FONT color=#0000ff>http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D32</FONT></A><BR><BR>I got a pack of 100, and a pack of 25. I needed 108 for the cube prototype. If I build another, I'm going to beef up 12 of the magnets - the 6 pairs that form the axles off the center cube, probably to twice the width, perhaps to the D63:<BR><BR><A href="http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D63"><FONT color=#0000ff>http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D63</FONT></A><BR></DIV></SPAN><BR></DIV>
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[ 本帖最后由 popopopolo 于 2008-5-17 23:38 编辑 ]

popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 4</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Set up the drill press</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>I don't have a shop at the moment, so I had to settle on a cheap drill press on the dining room table. I used a needlessly high-precision CNC-milled clamping square from Woodpeckers, makers of fine, high-tolerance machining guides:<BR><BR><A href="http://www.woodpeck.com/groupclampingsquare.html"><FONT color=#0000ff>http://www.woodpeck.com/groupclampingsquare.html</FONT></A><BR><BR>They have a feast of uber precision stuff:<BR><A href="http://www.woodpeck.com/"><FONT color=#0000ff>http://www.woodpeck.com/</FONT></A><BR><BR>I held the clamp guides in place with some small Irwin Quick-Clamps, and later, for some more stability, with standard metal C clamps.<BR><BR>To align things, I eyeballed it: I'd get it about right, clamp it down, then press the non-spinning bit into the acrylic to make a tiny dent, then turned the cube 90&Acirc;° and pressed again. When I got this to make a perfect tiny X in the acrylic, I knew it was pretty good. The cubes aren't accurate enough to be bothered with anything more precise than that.<BR><IMG src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FIK/VLG3/YRGEP27WQ67/FIKVLG3YRGEP27WQ67.MEDIUM.jpg" border=0></DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 5</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Get your polarities straight</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>It's crucial that all these axially-polarized disc magnets are put in the right way, and I'm glad to say I didn't mess this up once in all 108 magnets. To keep me straight as to which side of each magnet was which, I stuck them all together in one long rod, then drew a Sharpie dot on one end, and peeled that magnet off, and repeated, all the way down. Now they all had a visible polarity, though I don't know still which was N or S.<BR></DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 6</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Drill out the central piece</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>The central piece requires 6 holes, one per side, dead center. At first, I tried using a drill stop clamped onto the bit itself, but this is disasterous. The acrylic going up the flutes gets caught in there, and becomes a heated spinneret of fibers that instantly wraps around the bit, creating a solid acrylic chamfer between the bit and stop that then immediately cuts conically into the plastic. Once I remembered that my drill press had a stop built in, I got perfectly clean holes every time.<BR><BR>I drilled all holes for the project a little shallow first, then tested with a magnet as I slightly drilled more each time, up to the stop value I set in, until the magnet was just a hair's width lower than the surface of the cubes. As the cubes aren't all exact, I couldn't just rely on the stop itself.<BR><BR>The trick is to not let the magnets touch. In that last hair's width, their force becomes tremendous, and it's much harder to shear them apart. Better to let them be lower than the surface, and have only the acrylic surfaces slide against each other.<BR><BR>The magnets themselves slid in to an almost air-tight seal. Their slippery nickel-plating helped a lot here. To get the magnet back out after I tested it, I simply pushed the block up against part of the drill press, and it fly out and stick to the metal. In this way, I could keep drilling just a bit more and dropping the magnet back in to test for the right depth. Many times, however, the holes were the perfect depth after the first drilling.<BR></DIV>
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<DIV>The mass here formed from the acrylic going up the flutes, bunching up, and becoming a heated web of spinning fibers that wrapped around the bit and solidified. This created a cone of hot acrylic that made for a very messy drill hole. I couldn't use the drill bit stop obviously.</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.instructables.com/member/gfixler/"><FONT color=#0000ff>gfixler</FONT></A></DIV></DIV><FONT color=#0000ff><IMG class=imagenote style="LEFT: 102px; WIDTH: 130px; POSITION: absolute; TOP: 67px; HEIGHT: 107px" src="http://www.instructables.com/static/img/pixel.gif"></FONT>
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<DIV>what a mess</DIV>
<DIV><A href="http://www.instructables.com/member/gfixler/"><FONT color=#0000ff>gfixler</FONT></A></DIV></DIV></DIV><A class=withBG style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: 6px; Z-INDEX: 2500; LEFT: 5px; VISIBILITY: visible; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0px; PADDING-TOP: 0px; FONT-STYLE: italic; POSITION: absolute; TOP: 5px" href="http://www.instructables.com/file/FO59SIYHULEP27WQ9G/">i</A></DIV>
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popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 7</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Glue in the magnets</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>Without prior testing, I settled on Duco Cement from my local hardware store. You can see in the first two images that I'd put a bit of the glue in the hole, then push the rod of magnets into it, and slide the rod sideways to leave the tip magnet in the hole - always remembering to check the polarity.<BR><BR>In the third image, you'll see an interesting phenomenon of my materials choices. Duco Cement eats through faults in acrylic. As such, the circle at the end of the bored shaft, where it meets the crown, would "bloom" outward at a roughly 45 degree angle cone. Quite pretty, though not what I intended. Some of these blooms got pretty complex and wavy, but most just appeared like the conical cloud of vapor that trails supersonic jets. As the glue rehardened each time, the structural integrity of the cubes was not compromised. If I make another cube, I'm going to test other glues to find a nice clear one that doesn't do this, but still has this kind of strength and fast-drying time (30 seconds or so). It remains an interesting thing to see, however.<BR><BR>Be sure the 6 magnets you glue into the central piece have matching outward-facing polarities.<BR></DIV>
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<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 8</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Drill and fill the 6 center face pieces</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>These are the pieces that attach to the 6 faces of the central 'axle' piece. They require all but one side to be drilled and filled with a magnet. These untouched sides will be the center facelets on each of the 6 faces of the cube.<BR><BR>Make sure you get the polarities such that these cubes will stick to the center cube!<BR>
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<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 9</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Drill and fill the 12 edge pieces</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>Now it starts to get fun. The edge pieces each join a pair of center face pieces, and eventually a pair of corners. This leaves 2 faces undrilled, and you just need to make sure these 2 faces connect along one edge.<BR><BR>Again, make sure your polarities work. The two sides that connect to edge pieces need to match - so both N or both S facing out, because a piece can get spun around and return flipped to the same position. Likewise, the corner-facing sides need to match outward-facing polarities, for the same reason. In my model, the edge piece facing sides are opposite in polarity to the corner piece facing sides. This is probably the best way, as I've found that my cube can combine very well in all manner of unexpected positions.<BR><BR>You'll note in the pics that you can now make a central 3x3 layer with 1 central piece, 4 center face pieces, and 4 edge pieces. You can also remove the central piece - something you can't do with a regular Rubik's Cube. Too, you can create the whole cube now, sans corner pieces.<BR><BR>The last pic shows the flexible nature of the layers of the magnetic cube. It's fun to twist it back and forth like taffy.<BR><IMG alt="IMG_3367.jpg   model, previsualization, fun stuff, mockup, acrylic, 3D, magnetic, rubiks_cube, previz, Maya, outstanding project of the month, Rubik, previs, cube" src="http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FGE/GUFC/VL1EP27WQI4/FGEGUFCVL1EP27WQI4.MEDIUM.jpg" GALLERYIMG="NO"></DIV>
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popopopolo

<DIV><SPAN class=stepLabel style="PADDING-RIGHT: 5px">step 10</SPAN><SPAN class=stepTitle>Drill and fill the 8 corner pieces</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=txt>The corner pieces have 3 sides that face out, and shouldn't be drilled, and that means they have 3 sides that should. Just be sure they're all connected at one corner, and that your outward facing polarities all match, and mate properly with the edge pieces.<BR></DIV>
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